cordwainer Glossary

AWL - sharp hand tool

BURNISHING IRONS - hand iron heated by propane to burnish sole edges

CHANNELING MACHINES - channel upper and lower sole for hand lacing

COUNTER - stiff heel cup for shoe heel firmness

EDGE DYES - water based wax and black dyes to color edges of leather soles, natural or black

HARD CEMENT - used to attach soles and heels

HEEL FOXING - designed decorative piece of leather to cover back heel

HOLLOW LACING NEEDLES - for lacing sides and uppers to soles

LACING TERMS - SIDE LACING - connecting up vamps and quarters

                            TOP LACING - hand lacing around top edge, rather than machine stitching

                            SOLE LACING - hand lacing uppers to leather sole

LAST - rock maple hardwood foot shaped form to give shoe “foot” shape

LASTING POST - last inside shoe sets onto post for removing lasts

POUNDING FOOT POST - to pound flat edges of sole after lacing to upper

QUARTER - back part of shoe or boot

QUARTER LINING - cow leather-firmer

SOFT CEMENT - used for attaching linings and outer leathers together

SKIVING - thinning leather edges with a knife for easier  edge folding

SOCK LININGS - thin cow leather cut to fit inside of foot bed with customer/students name scribed

TALL POUNDING POST - for any small item to be pounded with hammer

TOE CAP - designed decorative piece of leather to cover toe area of shoes

TOE STIFFENER - thin neoprene material lining toe area for stiffness

VAMP - front part of shoe or boot

VAMPS LINING - pigskin leather-thin and soft

3 IN 1 MACHINE - cuts sole material/presses upper and  soles together